Summary of “The Surprising, Shrimp-less History of Aguachile”

In the last several years, aguachile – defined by the Larousse culinary encyclopedia as “Ceviche of raw shrimp mixed with lime juice, red onion, pepper, cucumber, chile piquín or chopped green chile” – has emerged as one of Mexico’s most popular restaurant dishes.
In Sinaloa, you’ll meet people who define aguachile by the type and size of the shrimp.
For Velázquez, “Confusing aguachile with the shrimp is a way of erasing the indigenous cultures and the whole story of mestizaje that created it.”
No one quite knows when aguachile became a shrimp dish.
Fernando Covarrubias, a close friend of Valle’s and owner of a catering company in Los Mochis, told me that as recently as 20 years ago, the dish we call aguachile went by another name – camarones ahogados, or drowned shrimp.
In the town’s fortified, pastel-colored center, we met Valle’s friend, César Echegaray, for lunch at his restaurant, where we ate giant grilled river shrimp and several variations on aguachile.
If aguachile has become Sinaloa’s most emblematic dish, that’s in large part because shrimp has become its most emblematic export.
The next day I asked Castro if he’d ever heard aguachile called “Ahogados.” I asked if he thought the dish we call aguachile and the word itself had developed separately and then, at some unknowable moment, come together.

The orginal article.