Summary of “The Illegal Ramen Vendors of Postwar Tokyo”

In this bustling environment, vendors announced their presence with the distinctive sound of charumera flutes and sold ramen from a yatai, a wheeled food cart filled with drawers containing noodles, pork slices and garnishes, alongside pots of boiling soup and water.
So flour for ramen was secretly diverted from flour milling companies into the black markets, where nearly 90 percent of street stalls were under the control of the yakuza, who extorted the vendors for protection money.
Thousands of ramen vendors were arrested during the occupation.
The government started to loosen its restrictions on food vending and removed controls on the exchange of wheat flour, which further boosted the number of ramen vendors.
According to Jonathan Garcia, a ramen class instructor at Osakana in Brooklyn, New York, ramen during this time was a shoyu based soup, made from a combination of pork, chicken, and niboshi.
Foods rich in fat and strong flavors became known as “Stamina food,” according to Professor George Solt, author of The Untold History of Ramen.
Ramen is arguably Japan’s most popular food today, with Tokyo alone containing around 5,000 ramen shops.
The past combination of economic necessity, American wheat, and Chinese culinary influence propelled ramen into the mainstream, and in turn, forever changed the way Japan ate.

The orginal article.